“Dude, Juba Can Mess You Up Big Time!”

Still pretty excited about going back home, I fired up my yahoo messenger to talk to friends, returnees like myself, who are now based in Juba. After a inquiring of the zillionth time how Juba was, wanting to hear “ooh it’s soo exciting, u should just come..“, I did not know what to think when this lady popped my almost perfect homecoming bubble when she said:

“Dude, Juba can mess u up big time!”

Okay, I took a breathe and tried to relax… I really tried… but all the while I keep thinking that right now, she was the only person messing up with my homecoming make believe dream that Juba will be just fine…  

A couple of days later, her caution started to make more sense. Juba will of course not have most of the things I gotten myself accustomed to in the west like efficient public services etc. With the neighbourhood cock becoming my wakeup call and morning alarm, I will have to get used to taking a cold morning bath the old African way. I’ll have to relearn to use a pit-latrine and forget those valuable moments I spent in the toilet doing my business while reading a magazine or a book. I will also have to get used to the IBM (isha’alla, bukra, malish) syndrome in Juba where everything is done by the grace of God (insha’alla), tomorrow (bukra) and if not, sorry (malish) and the cycle begins all over again. I will also have to learn to work at a phase that’s only known to Juba, take 3 hours lunch breaks and maybe booze during working hours.

But these exercises seem more like adaptations than drastic changes that could mess up ones life… so, what did my friend mean exactly?

They say the lifestyle in Juba could catch you with your pants down if your eyes are not wide open. Apart from being expensive, a fact mostly emphasized by new comers and visitors, Juba can be soo depressing and uplifting at the same time. You can hate it to the extent that you love it soo much… does that make since?

Okay, let’s establish a fact before proceding any further: Juba can indeed mess you up! Yes it can…

But will it? A returnee like myself with no euros in the pocket but only pure love of the county, will Juba dare to mess me up?

“Yes dude, Juba WILL mess you up, biiig time!” says the not so optimistic and not so enthusiastic voice in me.

“When you get to Juba, you will jobless, penniless and clueless.” the Voice continues. “You will be hit by malaria and Dr. Konyokonyo will not be able to help you… you will get ‘friends’ who booze every working day and you won’t be able to resist the charms of banat ta Juba (the girls of Juba)… you, my friend, will be messed up big time!” 

Remembering a Sudanese Hero: Dr. John Garang

The late Dr. John Garang is probably the greatest Sudanese politician in history. A Christian and a southern Sudanese from the Dinka tribe, Garang had a different view of what the problems of Sudan really were,  and a clear vision/solution to these problems.

His death under suspicious circumstances two years ago today (30 July)  has deprived Sudan of a visionary leader. Sudan might have also lost its last chance to remain united as envisioned by the man himself.

The New Sudan Concept

Independence saw the handing over of power onto the hands of a single group: Arabised Sudanese of the Muslim faith. For decades, this ruling class not only controlled and monopolised all government institutions, but also systematically and vigorously pursued a series of sinister policies that marginalised and oppressed Sudanese in the north, east, south and west of the country. In the process, the ruling clique tried to create a Sudan defined only in terms of the perceived Arab Islamic identity. Everything else that did not fit this criteria  was targeted for eradication.

The realities of the Sudan are far more complex than the projected image of an exclusively Arab Islamic Country. Garang understood that the Sudan was a time bomb waiting to explode and break into several pieces if nothing is done about the malpractices of the ruling few. For the Sudan to be rescued, he draw up a vision – the Concept of New Sudan - rooted on the simple notion that human beings, in any given society, have equal rights and obligations regardless of race, beliefs, colour, etc. Thus, a Sudanese is a Sudanese is a Sudanese, period!

Garang Misunderstood and Misinterpreted..

Southerners and northerners alike often misunderstand and misinterpret Garang’s vision of the New Sudan. I have negotiated with myself and come to the conclusion that Garang really had the unity of Sudan in mind and the love of all other marginalised Sudanese in heart when he struggled to achieve his dream Sudan. He had differences with other southern Sudanese (Riak, Lam Akol, Bona Malwal) because he stood firm on the issue of unity and refusing to fight the war as a south vs north, Christian vs Muslim or African vs Arab war. Even the people Garang fought for did not really understand the man. If other marginalised Sudanese especially from places like Darfur, Eastern Sudan and far up north would have joined the fight for a Sudan founded on equal basis, we could just be living that dream of the greatest country in Africa. But I believe some of the oppressed groups have themselves been affected by the disease of the ruling class! One rebel group in Darfur manifests to fight for a united Islamic Sudan!? Sometimes one wonders what can undo this curse that has befallen Sudan…

Some Sudanese today still believe that the head of state must be a Muslim. That’s sad isn’t it?.. Worst still, these Sudanese are not totally sincere with themselves, because as is the case in Sudan, not all Sudanese Muslims can be head of state.  The Nuba for example are almost entirely Islamised and to some extend Arabised. But a black African head of state will not fall well in the picture the ruling class of Sudan have been trying to project to the world about Sudan: ie- the exclusively Arab Islamic Sudan.

Now, even if Garang so much wished or wanted that Sudan stay united, unity can not be enforced just like the Sudanese realities can not be denied. Garang did what he could to get the best for every Sudanese, but other politicians lack the patience, wisdom and vision of Garang. Instead of rising the bar and demanding for an overall change of the system, some of us would rather opt to go for only a small piece out of the whole. …That was why Sadig El Mahdi tried to diminish the Sudanese problem by always referring to the war as the war in the South, or the Southern Problem.

So, Sudan or the South for that matter will separate. The Sudan as we know it today will cease to exist. Without the southerners, the other marginalised Northerners (don’t know if they will still be called Sudanese)  will have to regroup and agree on how they want that place to be ruled and view in the global and political atlas. Lemme go for now…Rest in peace comrade! 

All Countries except Israel…

Technically speaking, Sudan is in a state of war with Israel! Sudanese passports are stamped “all countries except Israel” and they risk execution if the government learns that they have visited Israel in one form or another.

In the mid 90’s two southern Sudanese were executed after Israel deported them from Israel through Jordon.

Two Sudanese citizens, Nelson Nebio and Joseph Tomba, were reported executed in Khartoum for visiting Israel. The two were deported from Israel to Jordan, who handed them over to the Sudanese authorities.
Source

Because regimes in Khartoum have consistantly feed the citizens with lies and hatred against Jews, most (northern) Sudanese view Israel and Jews “as a bunch of cunning, deceiving, occupying, ruthless, filthy, liars and killers” and above all, the arch-enemy of the Arabs, Islam and thus Sudan.

Speaking about Israel is as such a taboo. The government knows this too well because they created this imaginary enemy in the minds of Sudanese. You will know if you are no long ‘friends’ with the government when they start accusing you of having links with Israel. They accused the late Dr. Garang of getting support from Israel after they failed to defeat the the rebellion in the South; Sadiq El Mahdi for shaking hands with an Israeli, and a faction from Darfur of close links with the enemy- Israel.

But times have changed and some Sudanese are begining to question their very identity, interest and existances in this messy jungle where songs like Arabism, Islam, Africanism and so on are played in ever changing tunes and melodies. A Sudanese-Canadan called Faraji Mustafa has been under fire for establishing a  Sudanese-Israeli Friendship Association.

All Countries except Israel…

Understandably Israel, in its quest to establish a Jewish state for the Jews, seems to have a blanket policy towards Sudan and Sudanese, or refugees in general: ”Sudan is an enemy of Israel, you are Sudanese, so you are not welcome here….” The refugees are imprisoned and, if Egypt or Jordon cooperates, they are then deported and handed over to the Sudanese authorities to face their deaths!

And what was their crime exactly? All countries except Israel…

But like we said, times have changed! Sudanese are suprised and confused that under this sun exist Jews who can opened their homes and offer others unlike them some services….

Times have changed, indeed, and the stamped ink on my passport has already faded alright, but you can still read the words “All countries except Israel…”

A migrant’s dilemma: stay or leave?

Okay… maybe I’ll regret this decision later but right now, I just can’t wait to get back home! I have decided to terminate my permanent contract and leave all the comfort and security that the west presumably provides, and head back home to southern Sudan, a place where there are no roads, no clean running water, no electricity and no proper hospitals!

I must admit it was not an easy decision to make. I wrestled with the dilemma for more than 12 olympic rounds, but the final decision was in favour of returning to the place I call home.

Once I arrive Juba, I’ll keep you posted and will try to give you my views on several matters. As for now, wish me the very best and let me know if you think I have gone nuts!